Best fletching glue

[ghoasthunter]

i use gold tip but it sounds more like a prep issue too me 1 clen shaft with scotch brite. 2 wipe with denatured alcohol. 3 apply super thin layer of glue to vane covering the whole surface less is better. 4 put vane on front too back so you push out any air bubbles 5 hold firm for 5 seconds. 6 let sit for 20 more. 7 put arrow under your arm and place a dab of glue on front and back of each vane. if yor doing feathers you might need a little more glue and a lot more waiting and if you do wraps scotch brite and alc shaft then use a mouse pad too roll it on perfect then clean wrap a with alc. if you cant find denatured alcohol use 80 % pure rubbing alc or better.

Your 7 step process exactly what I do, so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. That's why I thought glue. Maybe I'm putting too much glue on?

it could be the answer i run a very small amount of glue and use the tip of glue bottle too rub a even coat. what vanes are you running some vanes require a primer step. i would recommend bohning vanes they come pre prepped out of the box. i fletch all my own arrows and dozens for my friends every year and never had any issues using them.

Ill have to make sure i put a little less glue down. But i use feathers from gateway feathers, don't know if anyone has had any problems with them.

ah feathers i use true flight on my stick bow but brand is not the problem. feathers are porous so they are probably soaking in the glue before the bond fully too the shaft with feathers your going to have a longer cure time because you will need more glue. also make sure the base of feather is flat sometimes feathers are not one hundred percent out of the bag. put your feathers in a fletching clamp and carefully sand them flat on base. a belt sander is my method. but you can also glue a sheet of sand paper to a flat board and do it fully buy hand with same results. just go threw a whole bag like that in one shot so you can keep a consistent feel.

[Horizontal Hunter]

I had all kinds of trouble with Fletchtight Platnium. I switched to Loctite superglue gel and never looked back.

Bob

[Ashreve93]

i use gold tip but it sounds more like a prep issue too me 1 clen shaft with scotch brite. 2 wipe with denatured alcohol. 3 apply super thin layer of glue to vane covering the whole surface less is better. 4 put vane on front too back so you push out any air bubbles 5 hold firm for 5 seconds. 6 let sit for 20 more. 7 put arrow under your arm and place a dab of glue on front and back of each vane. if yor doing feathers you might need a little more glue and a lot more waiting and if you do wraps scotch brite and alc shaft then use a mouse pad too roll it on perfect then clean wrap a with alc. if you cant find denatured alcohol use 80 % pure rubbing alc or better.

Your 7 step process exactly what I do, so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. That's why I thought glue. Maybe I'm putting too much glue on?

it could be the answer i run a very small amount of glue and use the tip of glue bottle too rub a even coat. what vanes are you running some vanes require a primer step. i would recommend bohning vanes they come pre prepped out of the box. i fletch all my own arrows and dozens for my friends every year and never had any issues using them.

Ill have to make sure i put a little less glue down. But i use feathers from gateway feathers, don't know if anyone has had any problems with them.

ah feathers i use true flight on my stick bow but brand is not the problem. feathers are porous so they are probably soaking in the glue before the bond fully too the shaft with feathers your going to have a longer cure time because you will need more glue. also make sure the base of feather is flat sometimes feathers are not one hundred percent out of the bag. put your feathers in a fletching clamp and carefully sand them flat on base. a belt sander is my method. but you can also glue a sheet of sand paper to a flat board and do it fully buy hand with same results. just go threw a whole bag like that in one shot so you can keep a consistent feel.

I had to adjust my bitzenburger jig to place the feathers flat on arrow. I never heard of sanding them down a little, i like that idea. Thanks for suggestion. Ill most certainly give that a go.

Im still going to switch glues,its hard to trust something that hasnt worked for me in the past. So ill sand the feathers, properly clean the shaft and feathers, then glue them with a little less glue.

[ghoasthunter]

i use gold tip but it sounds more like a prep issue too me 1 clen shaft with scotch brite. 2 wipe with denatured alcohol. 3 apply super thin layer of glue to vane covering the whole surface less is better. 4 put vane on front too back so you push out any air bubbles 5 hold firm for 5 seconds. 6 let sit for 20 more. 7 put arrow under your arm and place a dab of glue on front and back of each vane. if yor doing feathers you might need a little more glue and a lot more waiting and if you do wraps scotch brite and alc shaft then use a mouse pad too roll it on perfect then clean wrap a with alc. if you cant find denatured alcohol use 80 % pure rubbing alc or better.

Your 7 step process exactly what I do, so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. That's why I thought glue. Maybe I'm putting too much glue on?

it could be the answer i run a very small amount of glue and use the tip of glue bottle too rub a even coat. what vanes are you running some vanes require a primer step. i would recommend bohning vanes they come pre prepped out of the box. i fletch all my own arrows and dozens for my friends every year and never had any issues using them.

Ill have to make sure i put a little less glue down. But i use feathers from gateway feathers, don't know if anyone has had any problems with them.

ah feathers i use true flight on my stick bow but brand is not the problem. feathers are porous so they are probably soaking in the glue before the bond fully too the shaft with feathers your going to have a longer cure time because you will need more glue. also make sure the base of feather is flat sometimes feathers are not one hundred percent out of the bag. put your feathers in a fletching clamp and carefully sand them flat on base. a belt sander is my method. but you can also glue a sheet of sand paper to a flat board and do it fully buy hand with same results. just go threw a whole bag like that in one shot so you can keep a consistent feel.

I had to adjust my bitzenburger jig to place the feathers flat on arrow. I never heard of sanding them down a little, i like that idea. Thanks for suggestion. Ill most certainly give that a go.

Im still going to switch glues,its hard to trust something that hasnt worked for me in the past. So ill sand the feathers, properly clean the shaft and feathers, then glue them with a little less glue.

i definitely would ive been using goldtip for a long time now with no problems if you want too try that almost every pro shop i go too carries it on the shelf so it should be easy too get

[Ashreve93]

i use gold tip but it sounds more like a prep issue too me 1 clen shaft with scotch brite. 2 wipe with denatured alcohol. 3 apply super thin layer of glue to vane covering the whole surface less is better. 4 put vane on front too back so you push out any air bubbles 5 hold firm for 5 seconds. 6 let sit for 20 more. 7 put arrow under your arm and place a dab of glue on front and back of each vane. if yor doing feathers you might need a little more glue and a lot more waiting and if you do wraps scotch brite and alc shaft then use a mouse pad too roll it on perfect then clean wrap a with alc. if you cant find denatured alcohol use 80 % pure rubbing alc or better.

Your 7 step process exactly what I do, so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. That's why I thought glue. Maybe I'm putting too much glue on?

it could be the answer i run a very small amount of glue and use the tip of glue bottle too rub a even coat. what vanes are you running some vanes require a primer step. i would recommend bohning vanes they come pre prepped out of the box. i fletch all my own arrows and dozens for my friends every year and never had any issues using them.

Ill have to make sure i put a little less glue down. But i use feathers from gateway feathers, don't know if anyone has had any problems with them.

ah feathers i use true flight on my stick bow but brand is not the problem. feathers are porous so they are probably soaking in the glue before the bond fully too the shaft with feathers your going to have a longer cure time because you will need more glue. also make sure the base of feather is flat sometimes feathers are not one hundred percent out of the bag. put your feathers in a fletching clamp and carefully sand them flat on base. a belt sander is my method. but you can also glue a sheet of sand paper to a flat board and do it fully buy hand with same results. just go threw a whole bag like that in one shot so you can keep a consistent feel.

I had to adjust my bitzenburger jig to place the feathers flat on arrow. I never heard of sanding them down a little, i like that idea. Thanks for suggestion. Ill most certainly give that a go.

Im still going to switch glues,its hard to trust something that hasnt worked for me in the past. So ill sand the feathers, properly clean the shaft and feathers, then glue them with a little less glue.

i definitely would ive been using goldtip for a long time now with no problems if you want too try that almost every pro shop i go too carries it on the shelf so it should be easy too get

Great, thank you! Is it gold tip grip glue?

[A5BLASTER]

Gorilla glue gel super glue.

Dirt cheap and it can be found every where at any time.

[Ashreve93]

Gorilla glue gel super glue.

Dirt cheap and it can be found every where at any time.

Thanks! Have you found it to have a pretty good hold?

[Josh_S]

Thanks for the responses! The kind of glue I was using is the fletch tite Platinum. Maybe I'm doing something wrong..
My process is to use either the green scuff pad or 600 grit sandpaper to clean the shaft, then I take a new, clean rag and wipe down the shaft with acetone. Then I wipe down the feather with acetone, never touching the part of the shaft that gets the feather with my fingers. I run a bead of glue down the feather, then stick it on the Shelf. I wait 30 to 45 minutes, then I do another feather.

To me, I don't feel there's anything wrong with my system, which means the blues the problem. If you guys see anything wrong with my system, please notify me.

As it looks right now, I'll be switching to either AAE or Loctite. The only thing that worries me, is it seems you guys are using vanes and carbon shafts. Not feathers with aluminum. Do you think there would be a difference?

I'm thinking it's the aluminum shafts (I'm not that familar with them) but I've used about every glue known to man on carbons and never had a feather fall off. Only time I re fletch is after a kill or with new shafts. If your not against it try a arrow wrap bet that would fix the prob. Well if the wrap stays on lol.

With my kind of luck the wraps would fall off. Lol

I thought about it, but I enjoy gluing the feathers on, I'm just getting tired of doing it twice per year..

I think you might be getting arrow wraps confused with fletching tape...they are different...you roll an arrow wrap around the shaft where your feathers would go, then glue feathers/vanes on over top. I use feathers on carbon arrow for my trad bow, and have noticed my fletching seems to be more durable when I use arrow wraps. Wraps also make arrows much easier to re-fletch, you simply peel the wrap off and the old fletching comes off with it. Just about any archery retailer sells them.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/arrow-ca ... ncers.html

[A5BLASTER]

Gorilla glue gel super glue.

Dirt cheap and it can be found every where at any time.

Thanks! Have you found it to have a pretty good hold?

Holds on like a vice as long as I do my part and scrap off the old glue and parts of the vane that's leavt over when I sling one throw my target or a animal or anouther arrow throw a vane while training.

Got the lil boning tool and just give it a good cleaning making sure all the old glue is gone, whip it with my tshirt, put it in my arizona fletchings jig and 30 seconds later bang ready to shoot again.

I use gold tip hunter xt shafts as my back up and arrows and black eagle rampage as my primary arrows and it works great on both.

The gel really cuts down on the mess and it takes fixing alot more vanes before I need to break down and clean my jigs.

Three small drops one center one on each end use the tip to spread it and let the jig do the rest.

I fletch to get the max amount of spin that I can and tune a heavy arrow to use the smallest vanes I can.

Hope this helps sir.

[Horizontal Hunter]

Im still going to switch glues,its hard to trust something that hasnt worked for me in the past. So ill sand the feathers, properly clean the shaft and feathers, then glue them with a little less glue.

After my issues with Fletchtight Platnium I switched to the Loctite superglue gel to fletch Duravanes, Aerovanes, Gateway shield cut feathers (no sanding), and Bhoning Blazers with no issues whatsoever. I use a Arizona EZ Fletcher set for a 4 degree right offset. Fletching on plain carbon shafts and lacquer crested shafts and they held tight without any issues.

I run a good solid bead of glue down the vane and close the arms and wait for a minute or so. Then I take the arrow out of the jig and roll a Q Tip down the one side of the vane to pIck up any excess glue. One Q Tip per vane; one end per side. Doing this leaves a nice clean finished edge.

I finish the vane with a drop of super glue to the leading edge of each vane. This gives a little extra grip for when arrow buries the fletching in a target or goes through a whisker biscuit.

I do not use the Loctite superglue for the inserts. I have lost several front inserts in a target. I used Loctite two part epoxy for front inserts. I’ve never lost an insert using the epoxy. I generally use superglue on the rear nock. That way i can get it out if I want to switch to a lighted nock.

Getting the glue right takes some practice. You need an even line of glue with no gaps. In order to get some practice I bought 8 tubes of glue, a 50 piece package of cheap vanes (brand doesn’t matter), an took some of my broken shafts and cut them into 10” sections.

I would fletch both ends and call in a night. The following night I would use a razor knife to strip the vanes and then prep and reflech until I got the hang of it. Once you have the knack you got it. It doesn’t matter what the vane is.

Bob

[briar]

Sent PM, but for aluminum with feathers use saunders nvp fletching cement. Zero issues. Great fletching cement.

[Ashreve93]

Im still going to switch glues,its hard to trust something that hasnt worked for me in the past. So ill sand the feathers, properly clean the shaft and feathers, then glue them with a little less glue.

After my issues with Fletchtight Platnium I switched to the Loctite superglue gel to fletch Duravanes, Aerovanes, Gateway shield cut feathers (no sanding), and Bhoning Blazers with no issues whatsoever. I use a Arizona EZ Fletcher set for a 4 degree right offset. Fletching on plain carbon shafts and lacquer crested shafts and they held tight without any issues.

I run a good solid bead of glue down the vane and close the arms and wait for a minute or so. Then I take the arrow out of the jig and roll a Q Tip down the one side of the vane to pIck up any excess glue. One Q Tip per vane; one end per side. Doing this leaves a nice clean finished edge.

I finish the vane with a drop of super glue to the leading edge of each vane. This gives a little extra grip for when arrow buries the fletching in a target or goes through a whisker biscuit.

I do not use the Loctite superglue for the inserts. I have lost several front inserts in a target. I used Loctite two part epoxy for front inserts. I’ve never lost an insert using the epoxy. I generally use superglue on the rear nock. That way i can get it out if I want to switch to a lighted nock.

Getting the glue right takes some practice. You need an even line of glue with no gaps. In order to get some practice I bought 8 tubes of glue, a 50 piece package of cheap vanes (brand doesn’t matter), an took some of my broken shafts and cut them into 10” sections.

I would fletch both ends and call in a night. The following night I would use a razor knife to strip the vanes and then prep and reflech until I got the hang of it. Once you have the knack you got it. It doesn’t matter what the vane is.

Bob

Some great tips there man, thanks. Everything you said makes complete sense but your inserts. Is it typical to glue the inserts without the intent if taking them out? I always use hot glue, so if i reheat the arrow, i can pull the inserts and reuse them

[backstrap19]

another vote for blue loctite control gel. although i'm pretty sure any of the higher end gel super blues will work pretty well. i have used the gorilla also, but i like the applicator for the loctite better. easier to spread and control.