Advice Needed.......WHAT BROADHEAD???

[Missionshooter]

I need some advice because I am not getting pass throughs and I am putting my arrows right behind the shoulder.

Shooting 60 lbs 28.5" draw 100 grain 2" Swhacker.

I shot a buck on November 5th (posted in Kill Zone) right behind the shoulder and I didn't pass through both sides. It was a 30 yard shot and the buck fell down and died within 60 yards.


Again tonight I shot a buck right behind the shoulder (waiting until morning to recover him), and didn't get a pass through either. 25 yard shot.


What FIXED Blade broadhead do you recommend (I refuse to shoot Muzzys because they don't group worth a crap in my experience)??


Thanks for your help, Mission

[Huntoholic]

Read all the articles and studies on this site and you will understand heavier is better.
http://www.grizzlystik.com/Ashby-On-Mom ... n-W19.aspx

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[G3s]

I am a Rage shooter but my experience with slick tricks have been outstanding. If you want to stick with the mechanicals I would suggest going to a heavier arrow
so you get better penetration. Your set up, draw length, weight ect is a bit light on K.E for pass through with big cut mechanical heads ( I know stating the obvious)
I have had the same experience with Muzzy heads as yourself..I cant figure out the problem and assume that the ferrule is weak or bent right from the factory

[DeerDylan]

I've only shot one deer so far with them but I really like the Wasp Drones. I switched from Muzzys this season and these group and shoot like my field points and seem to be very durable.

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[Kokes]

Slick tricks

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[Dewey]

If your not "grouping worth a crap" with Muzzy's that sounds to me like you really need to work on tuning your bow. Arrows flying badly lose so much energy and that is likely the cause of you not getting pass thru's.

I shoot Muzzy's and my groups are excellent. Never had anything but a complete pass thru with them even thru shoulder while shooting 58-60 lbs. I refuse to shoot another head because they have been flawless for me using the them over 20 years on deer and bear.

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[JakeJD]

Slick tricks

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[mauser06]

First, any fixed blade is likely not to shoot well right out of the gate...I recommend Easton tuning guide and broadhead tuning with fixed heads...I actually like to use regular ole Muzzys to tune because I've found they are the toughest to get perfect lol.


If you're serious about wanting penetration Google the Dr. Ed Ashby studies....


If you simply wanna change heads I'd go to a 2 blade..Magnus has a good reputation..

I haven't shot any so can't help...I'm debating it...


Lots of factors play into penetration...arrow weight is HUGE.

Whats gunna hurt worse...a 90mph baseball or a 90mph ball of the same shape and size made of cotton...?

Speed is only a portion of the equation...arrow weight is huge...arrow weight and speed is kinetic energy...that number is great...but easy to skew with a REAL fast light arrow... momentum is the important number...which is where arrow weight comes in. A heavier arrow carries it's energy better and maintains it longer...

Front of center (FOC) is another big numer to look at...more weight up front aids penetration and arrow flight...think of a throwing dart..it's weight is up front.

Other factors are arrow diameter and shaft friction...

Another thing is proper tuning. Many hunters use mechanical heads because fixed heads don't shoot where their field points are...that is because the bow and arrows aren't tuned..the arrow isn't leaving the bow straight..the arrow fights to fly straight which Robs energy...then impacts crooked and robs more energy...

I don't know what you're shooting now...but not getting through a rib cage isn't good...but the big head doesn't help..



Good luck....I'm no pro...but I've done some research on the topic and it's something I really look at...took me a while to find the right shaft to build this year for my new bow...

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[Hatchetman]

I've shot Steelforce, 100 gr,,serrated ,titantiums. @ 62lbs. for about 10yrs. now.
I get very good passthrus and very straight trajectories thru the animal, no goofy arrow deflections, ever, even on strong quartering shots. Thats what I like most about them.
I've had some real bad experiences with other fixed blade broadheads deflecting before that.

[crankn101]

As stated above, tune your bow better so big fixed heads hit with your field points. For a fixed head I would try a 2 blade single bevel like a Helix. I know thats what ill use for a fixed when I quit my RAGE.

[crankn101]

If you dont shoot past 40 yards much you might want to try a 150 grain head. The added weight will help with the penetration some and the trajectory shouldnt change much up to 40 yards or so.


Helix....

[Crazinamatese]

Slick Trick. No tuning needed.

[JoeRE]

A lot of good advice above. Pick a heavier, smaller cutting diameter, lower cutting angle head and watch your penetration get a lot better. If you want to shoot a mech head still, go for it. Those rules above still apply.

I can't stand the current fad by broadhead manufacturers putting out a bunch of steep cutting angle heads - both fixed blades and mechs. The last thing you want is a steeper cutting angle if you have marginal momentum - or even if you have good momentum and hit big bones.

I'm not a huge fan of slick tricks because they have such a steep cutting angle, but they do fly well, and are very sharp out of the package. They have killed plenty of deer. Same for the new muzzies (MX's). Blows my mind why muzzy would put out a head with a steeper cutting angle like that, its destroying what their reputation is based on.

As a side note, for whatever reason I have seen 3 blade original muzzies are more finicky than 4 blade muzzies. And I am talking about heads that spin straight, from a well tuned bow. I really like 4 blade ORIGINAL muzzies for the price - with the lower cutting angle. Have to keep in mind 1 or 2 out of every 6 pack of muzzies is junk, bent ferrules

There are a lot of other decent manufacturers out there. I go extreme and shoot a heavy COC. Currently on a 150 grain mangus stinger, it will shoot through a big buck on almost any angle - and that's with the bleeder blades in making it a 4 blade head. The only thing I make sure I avoid is the shoulder ball joint on the entry anyway.

You will be very surprised that using a 150 grain head doesn't make your trajectory that much steeper compared to a 100 grain head. Lighter arrows loose their momentum faster at long range and begin dropping faster. One thing - shooting a 150 grain head may or may not work for your spine. If it was marginal to start with, it will make you under spined. Otherwise its fine.

I have become a huge fan of shooting heavy heads on a light, stiff shaft. Overall arrow weight is mid range, but with high FOC and awesome penetration with the COC heads I use. The arrows go through every deer I have shot and 2 elk like butter with that setup. The deer end up not knowing what hit them and I am certain end up running SHORTER distances than if they were hit with a huge mech head and take off 100 mph scared through the woods. Have also used Steelforce and VPAs.

[Missionshooter]

Thank you everyone for all your feedback so far!!


As mentioned, My arrows might be too light as well. I am shooting 27" ICS Hunter 400s with a 100grain tip.

[jbone23]

I like the G5 strykers as my fixed blade. But started shooting shwackers 2" as my main blade last season. I've got a 29.5" draw at 65 lbs on a chill R. My arrow is right around 530 grains. Shot 11 animals with that setup 50/50 mix hogs and does. Somehow have had a pass through every time. Think a heavy arrow could do a lot of good. I've been amazed by the durability and devastation the shwacker has caused. Hit a couple of the deer a lil far back and its real nice having that 2' cut in those situations.