Broad head tuning

[jpe40]

Any tips on broad head tuning? I shoot fixed blade muzzy and found that when i switch from field points to broad heads im hitting a couple inches to the left of my groups. Thanks in advance

[ Post made via Android ]

[matt1336]

Look on YouTube. Search Walk back tuning. Pretty simple.

[ Post made via iPhone ]

[Bowhunting Brian]

See how a bare shaft shoots before you move anything. Do not use a bag style target for bare shaft tuning.

[ Post made via Android ]

[mauser06]

Google Easton tuning guide. It covers broadhead tuning.


Left impact can be fixed by moving the rest right just a smidge..I'm talking move it a hair and shoot.. reevaluate..make proper adjustments..

Your field point groups may move as well...what I do is shoot a couple field points then a couple broadheads each time to see where each group lands. When they shoot the same spot your set...

Learn from my mistakes...don't shoot broadheads into the same group as other arrows lol...



Left impact is also possibly a sign of a stiff spine..can be corrected a few ways depending how stiff..but I'd start by trying to tune it out first...


Walk back tuning is good..so is bare shaft tuning..I've found when a big fixed head shoots with field points it passes all the other tests..


I noticed my field points were hitting a smidge left..and my 40yd groups were all a touch left..I bumped the rest in a hair and she's on now..when I say a hair..I mean really a HAIR..I had issues with that on my new bow..my wrench didn't fit well between the cables and I kept bumping the rest too much..

[ Post made via Android ]

[jpe40]

Thanks for the tips. Hopefully an easy fix

[ Post made via Android ]

[JoeRE]

Agree with pretty much all the above comments.

On a related note, I haven't paper tuned in a decade and am glad of it. Needless headache in my honest opinion. Just bare shaft and broadhead tune - much faster and much clearer that your arrow is doing the right thing.

[MentatArcher]

I'd encourage you to shoot a lot before you begin playing around too much with settings. Shoot like 20-30 shots with the broadheads on a fresh piece of paper, same with field points. And compare the center point of each group. I used to shoot groups of 3 and 5 but after shooting a lot more I'd see myself shooting left of center 1-2in with a group of 10, then on the very next group of 10 I'd be right of center 1-2". Just be exhaustive with your data, and don't leave it to assumption. I hate chewing up targets with broadheads, but it's better than guessing.

+1 on Easton tuning guide and +1 on not paper tuning. Paper is harder to read than bareshaft or broadhead tuning and you can end up making mistakes.

If you get it dialed right where field point impact = broadhead impact it can really boost your confidence tremendously so definitely pull out all the stops to get there... calipers, tieing in everything tight, lots of shooting, help from a pro shop if needed.. whatever it takes.

[jbone23]

bareshaft tune or walk back tune both should get you hitting with your field points. really depends on what you find more comfortable for you.

[freezeAR]

I always start by paper tuning. I know a lot of people think this is unneccesary. The only thing I am trying to do is make sure my arrow spine is correct ( simply adding the same weight broadhead can change this because the broadhead is longer in most cases than the field point) and to see if my fletchings are contacting the rest. I then walk back tune. Then I screw on broadheads and bh tune.

I use to not really get the concept of bh tuning but it really makes sense. The bh introduces a steering effect to the arrow that the fp does not. So when you adjust for differences in arrow groups between the fp and bh it effects both groups but it effects the bh group more. Bh tuning is just getting those two groups as one.

Once the groups are together adjust sights to hit where you are aiming and you will have yourself a finely tuned fixed broadhead tac driver.

[Kybowhunter]

When I set up a bow for broadheads I set my rest up with my arrow running dead center of the berger hole and dead down the middle center shot. Take a bareshaft and shoot it through paper and if I get a bullet hole thats my starting point. So when I get my bareshaft bullet hole I take my arrow with a field point and start close shooting and work your way back as far as you can accurately shoot. So say were at 60 yards. Field point hits dead on and you broadhead hits low right. Chances are the arrow is leaving the bow nock high left. From there the broadheads catch wind just like the vanes and plain the arrow. If the tune is close this will usually only show up at farther distances. After that you just bump the rest to move the broadhead to the field point. It probably will only take a minor adjustment.

Always spin test each broadhead and match them up with the arrow it spins best on. Thats a major step. Alot of times the blades could be the cause of the wobble so I spin test each ferrel before I check it with blades. I find that fixed blades definently tune best anywhere below the 290fps mark. You can get them to fly perfect over that but the bow and tune seems to be much more critical. A strong helical on your vanes could clean quite a bit of your broadhead problems but at longer distances it starts to slow way down and the vanes cause what they call a "parachute effect" causing the arrow to wobble in the back end.
This is a major headache and causes very inconsistant results.

[ Post made via iPhone ]