UB1243.......

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UPbowhunter
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UB1243.......

Unread postby UPbowhunter » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:35 am

Joe, its early now but why dont you put up some snare set info on here. There are a few guys on here who are adding snares to there lines, out west and I have learned alot off of you, and you have alot of pictoral info you could post. Most of the guys on here are upper mid west guys so they dont have the restrictions we do here in Jersey, but I thought we could all use some good info from one of the best snareman in our area. Now would be a good time to start talkin about the basic snare set so guys could maybe put some snares together and know what to look for as far as a good set when they start hitting the woods this fall.


You can take a Yooper out of the U.P., but you cant take the U.P. out of the Yooper. www.droptineproductions.net
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ub1243
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Re: UB1243.......

Unread postby ub1243 » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:46 pm

sure.
everyone runs different. i will post what i have found works for me. i used to chase reds all winter, we lost them to mange, distemper, then coyotes. the numbers have been off for 7 years. now i chase coon, greys and a little water trapping to help damaged ponds.

MY snares are 5' long 5/64 7x7. i like a micro lock, slim lock, BMI mini lock, in no order. they are small, but very strong. we have a loops stop and deer stop law in new jersey. i like to use annealed brass 4 40 nuts for those. i use a #9 wire end swivel, use a nut then put on the end stop. i use a wammy and #11 support wire. i push the end of the #11 in the ground, bend it to what i need, then push the wammy over the support. when the ground freezes i will use 14ga annealed wire wrapped on a sappling and a inverted S on the snare end.
i also use a 8' 3/32 7x7 extention. i make them with loops on each end. i loop to loop the end swivel. then i can "choke" a tree, fence post or blowdown for an anchor. i have rebar stakes in the truck, but don't use many. anchor for the biggest critter you may catch. coyotes will pull a single stake. remember, they have all 4 feet to work with.
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our laws make us limit the loop to 12" dia. if you look close you will see the wammy on the loop side of the loop stop. this will allow your wammy to always be tight to the lock. you want nothing to move but the lock firing on the loaded snare.
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but placing the wammy on that side of the loop stop, i can run the same snare for coyotes down to greys.
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i buy fish tank air line from walmart for my wammys. it gets stiff in the cold. but when it's real cold, i switch to 14ga and the inverted S anyway.
critters will twist up if the swivel gets plugged or you don't have one on.
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coon chew on top, otter twist on bottom.
most times coon will fixate on something when caught. sometimes it's the cable. sometimes they wrap up and chew on the entanglement. we can use entanglement here. some states that is a no-no.
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grey wrapped up. very much alive.
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red wrapped up.
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incidental wrapped up. live and released.
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Re: UB1243.......

Unread postby ub1243 » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:58 pm

lets talk location.
any place the critter is forced to go down a trail, around a blowdown tip, a cross over. i run snares with no baits. most times no scents or lures. you want the critter moving at a normal pace. the bottom of the snare should hit the critter in the chest. a loaded snare will close very quickly on the animal. necks catches are what you try to get. BUT coon are tough to neck all the time. and a caught coon still pays.
CROSS OVER
my favorite set. any critter running a crick will use a cross over.
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rat snare on a trail
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coon tail along a stream.
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mink snare.
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coyote snare. break between hedge rows
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Re: UB1243.......

Unread postby ub1243 » Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:03 pm

how about a drowning rig.
heavy weight, wire a cable on it, an L lock.
a otter snare, tripple swivel.
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coon trail along a stream, going under my bridge out back.
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this is how i connect the extention. loop to loop
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Re: UB1243.......

Unread postby ub1243 » Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:16 pm

set on sign
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find the trail the critter is using. what critter is it? you need to know for the walking surface to loop bottom height. you want them moving at a regular pace. use scents wrong, they will be nose down and go under your set. learn the travel patterns of you target. get to know one animal at a time.


i am in no way an expert. i do catch fur. i am not a long liner or a big numbers guy. i have been working on a trapping dvd. that does not allow a long line. it takes a lot of time to show the before and afters for film.
you can set a lot of cable in a day. be carefull, don't over do it. find the hubs. find the dens. gang set. it's better to park the truck, take the walk, and have two or three critters sitting there.
if your in it to make money, find something else to do. learn to break even. along the way you will become a better bow hunter. any nuckle head can get within 30 yards of a deer. a woodsman can get a critter to stick it's head in a 6" loop.
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Re: UB1243.......

Unread postby UPbowhunter » Sat Jul 30, 2011 2:16 pm

Good stuff Joe, Tony and I have learned alot from you over the last year. You have helped our learning curve 10 fold over haveing to learn on our own. I would recomend any one that wants to add snares to their arsonale to ask or pm Joe he will bend over backwards to help anyone, alot more for guys out of state that wont move in on his spots! :lol:
You can take a Yooper out of the U.P., but you cant take the U.P. out of the Yooper. www.droptineproductions.net


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