Arrow tune?

[Quest1001]

I just bought 6 arrow from the local shop and numbered them. I shot each arrow at its own target to see how they performed. I have one arrow that hits perfect. The others are consistently hitting either high or off to a side. These are match grade Easton 6.5.

Is the next step trying nock tuning to get them hitting point of aim?

[Trout]

First question, is your bow tuned or at least close? Second question, are you sure the variation isnt you? If both yes, are you able to fletch your own arrows? If so, cut the feathers off, bareshaft nock tune, then refletch and they should be busting nocks. If you cant refletch, try nock tuning with the vanes or feathers on and see if it helps.

[Quest1001]

I’m just learning the process of tuning. I’m shooting the arrows consistent enough to believe it’s not me.

I’m ordering the supplies to start squaring and fletching arrows.

The arrows I bought already have fletching.

[ThePreBanMan]

I'm not a big fan of Easton arrows. But they have their fans so... You got some good advice from Trout. But I think we're missing a lot of info before we can offer insight.

What bow are you shooting them out of
draw weight
draw length
arrow spine rating
arrow shaft length
weight of arrow components (nock, collars, inserts, and field points) and total arrow weight
fletching (both the make/model vane and number 3 or 4)
arrow wraps?

Have you shot them through paper to see how they're leaving the bow?

Then we can at least see if the darn things are sized right for your setup. Arrow spine is probably the single most important thing when tuning arrows/bows.

[Quest1001]

Ok, I’ll get all the info put together tomorrow. It was paper tuned by the local shop but I’m making a set up so I can paper tune at the house.

I’m not brand loyal. Those are just the arrow they recommended I buy.

I’m shooting a prime alloy bow. 28 1/2 draw 58#. Its a 340 spine arrow with three fletched.

I’ll get the arrow weighed tomorrow and the other info as well.

[Quest1001]

Carbon to carbon length is 28 1/16”
With 100 gr field tip total arrow weight is 422.
The fletching have no branding on them. I’ll take a pic.

I built the paper tune setup today and shot some of the arrows. Looks to be nock high?

I shot from 6’ away. Using the numbered arrow for each spot.

Shooting on paper was a great learning tool.

[theAdmiral]

Looks like nock high arrow flight to me. Lower your rest or nocking point and give it another go.

[Quest1001]

So my rest had been raised to max height for the nock high shots at 6’. I thought I could bring my bow in and have the d loop lowered and then I could adjust the rest to get bullet holes.

The guy at the shop asked why I was paper tuning if they tuned it last year and the new arrows were the same diameter. I tried explaining the nock was hitting high and shoed him the paper. He said it shouldn’t matter if nothing was moved from last time. He grabbed the bow and my arrow. Went in the back and came out with a piece of paper with a bullet hole and said it wasn’t the bow and it was me. And that was it.

So I went home frustrated wanting to figure this out. I shot at 6’ changing how I pulled the trigger and had the same results as before.

Finally I moved two feet closer to 4’ and got bullet holes. Moved back to 6’ and same high nock tears. Moved to 14’ and same high nock tears.

Can someone explain what’s going on and what to do? Why is it hitting nock high at further ranges? Does this matter?

I’m assuming this isn’t ideal especially for penetration with broad heads.

[Trout]

He is right it is you, but his message is also misleading. If I grabbed your bow and arrows I might shoot nock left or right or down. I would have to tune the bow and arrows to me. We all dont shoot the same.

[Quest1001]

So why was I shooting good at 4’ and not further out?

I’m just trying to understand.

I agree the bow should be tuned to me shooting it.

[Trout]

So why was I shooting good at 4’ and not further out?

I’m just trying to understand.

I agree the bow should be tuned to me shooting it.

I'm not sure. I dont wanna sound like a smartass, but the reason is they are flying perfect at launch and nosing down further out. What do they do at 21', 30', 60', etc? Shooting at some different distances might give you a better picture of what the arrow flight looks like.

[Quest1001]

Haha no worries. I’ll shoot at longer distances as well.

I think I’m going to cut the canes off one arrow and see what it does also.

I did this with an old arrow and the string spins the arrow right and the shop sold me left helical vanes. I brought up the fact the string spun the arrows right and they said it wouldn’t have an effect on accuracy. Maybe true, but I’m curious if maybe it’s fighting that twist from the fletch and could be why it’s nose down a few feet out.

Maybe it will stabilize at further distances like you said.

Test and see.

[Trout]

I think he is probably right there. That said, if I knew which way my arrows spun off my bow, I would probably match the helical or offset direction to it. At some point, I think we are splitting hairs. But it's fun to dial your bow and arrows in so why not?

[may21581]

Arrows are no different than bullets. Think about this. Why do some guys hit dead on at 100 yards with their rifle and cant hit the side of a barn at 250 yards? The farther out you go the problem is amplified.
There are many things it can be. An issue with a rest, fletching bumping something on release, bow timing, shooting issues with your form or any one of a thousand other things.
The issue you have is called key hole. Most times it is a rest issue or something involving it. No this isnt really acceptable nor is it good for accuracy.
Do you still have your old arrows to try and shoot? If so try tuning back in with them and then try the others again. Could be an arrow issue if all you have done is switched them then the problem developed. Back track to when it shot good and eliminate anything that has changed since then.

[ThePreBanMan]

IMHO

Paper tuning should be done at a distance of about 22' with bare shafts. At 6' the arrow is still flexing from the launch and that can lead to misleading tears. It has to be bare shaft at that distance as fletching would impact arrow flight greatly at that distance. You'll see all kinds of different tears that close in just by moving in/out a few feet each time. It's hard to get a bullet hole though the paper when your arrow is flexing like a twizzler.

I can't run the numbers without every exact detail about the arrow.

However gross numbers indicate your arrow's spine is too stiff. I'm assuming a 30-grain insert since you didn't provide that info. So either step up the field points to 125 or 150 or crank up the draw weight. Or some combination of both. This is based on very gross numbers since I'm still missing so much detail about your arrow build. To be exact I need to know EVERYTHING about it. Right down to the weight of the wrap and how long it is etc.

At current setup - again making a lot of assumptions, your optimum spine is closer to 400.