I've been slowly working my way through the process myself. Seems like I found a consistent sweet spot with the 250 Vulcans with a 200gn and 225gn field points, but now I want to put them through paper and see. Also got a hold of some 125gn and 150gn points that I want to test as well to try and match the common broad head weights.
One issue I keep having which sets me back is I seem to get a consistent tail-whip from my arrows after release. I've tinkered with my rest, but have come to the conclusion that it has to be torque from my grip. Seems after I shoot for awhile (about the time the mosquitoes come out in full force in the evening) is when things start straightening out and I shoot darts. Not sure if I have a timing issue or cam lean going as I don't have a bow shop anywhere near me so I haven't been able to get in for a pro tune. But, my bow is fairly new so I don't think I'm having those issues... pretty confident it's user error.
Has anyone else had issue with tail-whip from their arrows and know what caused it?
Tell ya what.... Going through the process sure ain't cheap!
I think an often overlooked area of setting up a bow is - reading the manual
. I think a lot of folks would be well served to do this before they go moving things around. Typically your bow manufacturer will advise you to set the rest square to the bow riser. That is best done using a laser tool like this:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
....or similar. Then they have you set the vertical so that the shaft is centered with the Berger hole in the riser. Then set nock height using a bow square. Set nock height above square by half the diameter of your shaft. Your rest is now square to the bow and string and this is where most manufacturers would advise you set it - and leave it. From there you adjust for arrow flight via moving the nock point for vertical, or yoke tune for horizontal, shooting bare shafts through paper at a distance of 21 feet to observe arrow flight. But you don't move the rest. The rest should be square to the bow. If you have issues with arrow flight in that position, then you need to make adjustments in your cables. This requires a bow press which most people don't have. So they go buggering around with the rest to try to compensate for out of tune strings/cables. Larger groups and inconsistent arrow flight are often the results - and poor broadhead PoI consistency.
Set the rest where the manufacturer advises. Then get the majority of your bare shafts shooting something close to a bullet hole through paper at 21' by adjusting the yoke cables and nock height. Shoot each one several times. Out of a dozen or so shafts, you may have a few shafts that don't seem to play nice - and that's okay. This is why you want to use several. Inconsistencies in arrow manufacturing will show themselves here. As will inconsistencies with the man behind the bow. But if you're shooting a quality shaft they should be pretty consistent. Then fine-tune via nock tune and making small changes to point weight to get the spine dialed in. This is the "hand load". But doing the hand load if the bow isn't right is putting the cart before the horse IMHO. It's like trying to hand load a bullet for a rifle before you have the scope properly mounted and zeroed.
....This assumes the obvious as well. Like your bow is in time, you have the right spine shafts for your draw length/weight, etc...