NorthwoodsWiscoHnter wrote:When I started to push my limits in bigwoods and become a better hunter, I researched like you to find information that would help educate me in bigwoods. The amount of material out there is very little. There's probably a lot of reasons for that. For one there are probably less bigwoods hunters out there than there used to be. Less hunters, few deer numbers, fewer mature bucks, therefore less content. Simple as that.
In my journey of hunting bigwoods I've sought out information and hunters that I can learn from. That's tough. The best teacher is the woods and the deer. There isn't anything better than time in the woods. That sounds cliche but that is true. And when I say time in the woods, I'm not saying go to the same spot over and over. You gotta put boots to the ground and move around.
Here would be my top 10 tips on bigwoods bowhunting if someone asked me in no particular order. (Please note that this is my experience and areas, bigwoods is a broad description and means something different for everyone else.)
1. Start small and break it down. When you pick a piece of property it's good to take it in sections. Once you learn a section, move on and learn a new one, and so one. If you don't do this it will confuse and frustrate you. Also note, that most likely only 10% of your property will have value. You gotta find the 10% and bypass the 90%. This takes time to understand.
2. Keep a journal. Document and record your findings, sightings, where you find sign, the dates you find it, and so forth. Creating a history of your property will definitely help. Mature bigwoods bucks have a knack for being creatures of habit. It's not written in stone but typically a mature bigwoods buck has a routine. He will be in the same areas at the same times of year do the same things.
3. Use trail cameras. When I say this you have to be cautious and not get addicted. The pictures will tell you what caliber of bucks in your area and can give you good information that you can record and keep. This helps morale and attitude. Remember to not get caught up in chasing pictures though. You're hunting bucks. Not pictures. The cameras should be a tool for information. Not a crutch.
4. Be mobile. In my experience in bigwoods, the deer will migrate and move around. One thing I've learned the hard way is to move around. You are either on the deer or you are not. You cannot always sit in the same stand over and over and expect them to just show up. It normally doesn't work that way. Mature bucks do not do anything at random. They move with a purpose. They don't just wander in random areas.
5. Be mentally prepared to not see many deer. This is very hard to do for many hunters. It can be taxing on the mind and wear you down mentally if you are not seeing deer or even finding sign. A lot of the time you will feel like you are getting nowhere. You will feel like a failure. This is perhaps the hardest part of bigwoods hunting. We sometimes can get in our own way a lot of the time. The mindgames are killers for morale and attitude. This is something that probably takes time to learn and get experience. Know that each sit you put in is one sit closer to getting on a stud and in a minute everything can change. In bigwoods hunting, success usually doesn't come easy. Especially for bowhunting. My good friend that lives in Ely Minnesota finally killed a buck with bow on camera. It was the first buck in 10 YEARS for him and he's a great hunter in my eyes! It's also hard with social media. It's tough to see guys with trophy giants over and over when you are not even seeing deer. But you have to understand it's a different game you are playing. It's apples and oranges. Do not compare yourself to others. It's not the same.
6. Cyber Scouting is important. With cyber scouting you can find your access, your parking areas, the logging trails, the walking trails, and most importantly the terrain features and elevations. The cyber/topo maps will help you see the transitions, elevation changes and terrain breaks. You will be able to find the clear/select cuts. Also when you find sign, use a hunting application to document it. Then when you are back to the computer look and analyze it from afar.
7. Have a 3-5 year plan. This is part of the mental part however it's good to realize that it may take you 3-5 years to learn an area well and have success. In an interview, Mitch Rompola talks about this. Greg Miller also talks about this in one of his books. I cannot stress it enough to learn your areas. We are looking for needles in a haystack. A vast amount of country with few deer. Luck is definitely part of it when coming across deer. But luck is when preparation meets opportunity.
8. Know your gear. This isn't overly important to some but it's important to me. Typically the bigwoods can be harsh hunting and it's good to have gear that can take a beating. Also it's a good idea to have lightweight quality gear. It's really helpful to silence gear. Also when you hunt, take what you need. Try to keep it simple. If you are hiking 2 miles back or more, odds are you shouldn't be grabbing gear that won't have a purpose. It's also good to have gear for emergency or will help you in case of the what if happens. Items I take that a flashlight/headlamp, water, and a compass.
9. Analyze the buck sign. The the few amount of sign that the bucks leave it's really important to use it to your advantage. Understand the perennial scrape and rub lines. Analyze tracks. If there is snow it would be a great benefit to follow tracks and learn what the deer do and how they move through your properties. It's such a benefit to follow a buck and understand what he goes through on a daily basis. Another trick is in the winter is to follow the tracks backwards and learn where they come from.
10. Learn the Forest. What I mean by this is learn what is where. Learn what areas are spruces, oaks, maples, poplars, cedars, alders, dogwood, tamaracks etc. Being a good woodsman is really helpful because you'll understand more of what the deer like for food and where they will hang out and what time of year. This takes a lot of time. The does tend to bed in areas where their food choices are and where there is good security. Clearcuts/poplar slashings are a good place to start for doe bedding. Also certain swamps with cedar are great for cover and food for the deer. To learn the forest it's good to take your time when you are navigating through it. Take in your surroundings and don't be in a rush.
This^^ is what it’s all about. I hunt unbroken National Forest and all it is is big timber, old cuttings, pines, and just hill country. The sign is in pockets and lots of turf between those pockets. Where I find sign will usually be years worth of it in the same spots. They gravitate to these areas year after year. I don’t find many beds. I feel big timber deer move more than any other types therefore they don’t stay long enough to have worn beds. Here today there tomorrow. My best luck is in areas where I find sign repetitively and this changes due to acorns that year or not. It’s a hard game and you cannot go out there looking like a bass pro catalog. Stuff doesn’t kill deer, being observant, reactive, and too freakin hard headed to quit is what kills deer in this type of terrain.