Bow problem

[Sean55025]

I have had 5 different sights on my bow 4 different manufacturers and every time to keep the arrow groups centered the sights have to be maxed out away from the riser. With or without a sight the bow paper tunes bullet holes. Not sure what else I can try.

[Redman232]

Have you moved your arrow rest?

[wiscbowhntr]

Something isn't right... What does you're center shot measure at? most bows are 13/16 to 3/4

[JoeRE]

Your bow might have cam lean or its just not tuned. Paper tuning is deceptive - and therefore in my opinion a waste of time. I would bare shaft tune and/or broad head tune. Either one will tell you immediately if the issues are YOU (form) OR your bow.

I have seen sights way out like that before and it was most often cam lean. I can sometimes still get them to shoot straight with a lot of tinkering but it sure looked funny and your bow will be operating less efficiently. Basically that causes the arrow to come off the bow at a slight side angle. The right thing to do is fix it.

If there is a good pro shop nearby I would take it in, that can shorten up the trial and error diagnostics....

[Stanley]

Try this:
Hang a target face so the bull’s-eye is at your shoulder height.

Put a nail at the top,
and hang a weighted string,
so the string splits the bull’s-eye in half.

Now,
start at 9 feet.

Fire a field point arrow.

If the field point arrow misses the string to the left,
then move all the pins to the left. (Adjust the entire sight housing).

If the field point arrow misses to the string to the right,
then move all the pins to the right.

The goal is to nail the string perfectly.
You want your field point arrow to be exactly below the center
of the bull’s-eye.



Now,
go back to 10 yards.

Fire a 3 arrow group.

Find the center of the arrow group.

If the center of the arrow group is to the left of the string,
move the arrow rest to the right.

If the center of the arrow group is to the right of the string,
move the arrow rest to the left.

Goal is to have the hanging string split your arrow group in half.



Now,
go back to 9 feet.

Fire a field point arrow.

If the field point arrow does not exactly nail the hanging string,
then adjust all of your pins to the left or right,
until the arrow is dead center under the exact center of the bull’s-eye.


Now,
go back to 10 yards.

Adjust the arrow rest in tiny amounts,
until the hanging string splits your 3 arrow group in half.


When you are done,
you can fire a field point arrow from 9 feet
and it will be exactly underneath the center of the bull’s-eye.

Your 3 arrow group from 10 yards,
will also be split in half by the hanging string.



Now, your centershot (arrow rest)
and your windage (pins) will be perfect.
__________________

[jessejames]

If you are going to paper tune you need to do it at more than one distance. I gave up on shooting paper and broad head tune as the others suggested. Depending on the bow some bows may need to be shimmed or the spacers between the cams switched around. One will be thicker than the other.

[freezeAR]

Paper tuning is deceptive but I still use it to tell me two important things initially. I want to know if my arrow spine is correct and I want to know if I have interference with the fletchings.

Like others have said, you need to change the distances. Another thing to remember is that a well tuned bow that will put field points in same spot as broadheads may or may not punch bullet holes through paper. It is a good starting point to punch bullet holes but by no means the end result I look for. My final test is broadhead tuning.

[Nocturnal]

Take an arrow, lay it against one edge of the cam, parallel with the string. The arrow should be completely parallel with the string. If the arrow crosses the string at all or moves away from the string, you have cam lean. That's how you check at rest.
A little bit of cam lean at rest is not a big deal. It's the cam lean at full draw that makes tuning a bow a nightmare. Cam lean will manifest as a bow that absolutely will not paper tune or bareshaft tune without some kind of weird tear, and/or will not group broadheads and field points at the same point of impact.

To check cam lean at full draw, perform the same test with the bow in a draw board. If you don't have a draw board, you can have a friend check it while you're holding the bow at full draw.

The question on how you fix it depends on the design of the bow. If it's a split yoke design like a Hoyt CRX or similar, you can tune out some of the cam lean by twisting the long side, and untwisting the short side. There's only so much that can be done, so don't over do it, and definitely check

If it's a floating yoke bow like a Mathews Monster, you're pretty much screwed.

[Nocturnal]

Yea I didn't see JoeRE's post. That's my guess too. Unfortunately this happens often. Hopefully you have a good proshop close by. They should take care of the problem: worst case scenario, you may have to purchase new limbs.

[moog5050]

Current specs on bow, arrows and rest centershot measurement would all be helpful to diagnose. For example, it may be possible to make a weak arrow paper tune with a rest pushed out but it will cause the problem you mention.

[Clink]

Try this:
Hang a target face so the bull’s-eye is at your shoulder height.

Put a nail at the top,
and hang a weighted string,
so the string splits the bull’s-eye in half.

Now,
start at 9 feet.

Fire a field point arrow.

If the field point arrow misses the string to the left,
then move all the pins to the left. (Adjust the entire sight housing).

If the field point arrow misses to the string to the right,
then move all the pins to the right.

The goal is to nail the string perfectly.
You want your field point arrow to be exactly below the center
of the bull’s-eye.



Now,
go back to 10 yards.

Fire a 3 arrow group.

Find the center of the arrow group.

If the center of the arrow group is to the left of the string,
move the arrow rest to the right.

If the center of the arrow group is to the right of the string,
move the arrow rest to the left.

Goal is to have the hanging string split your arrow group in half.



Now,
go back to 9 feet.

Fire a field point arrow.

If the field point arrow does not exactly nail the hanging string,
then adjust all of your pins to the left or right,
until the arrow is dead center under the exact center of the bull’s-eye.


Now,
go back to 10 yards.

Adjust the arrow rest in tiny amounts,
until the hanging string splits your 3 arrow group in half.


When you are done,
you can fire a field point arrow from 9 feet
and it will be exactly underneath the center of the bull’s-eye.

Your 3 arrow group from 10 yards,
will also be split in half by the hanging string.



Now, your centershot (arrow rest)
and your windage (pins) will be perfect.
__________________

This is a great start. Its most likely your centershot however.

[Clink]

Here's a great basic reference for tuning your bow.
http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/T ... rchery.pdf

[Sean55025]

The bow is a 2016 bear threat. It had 70lb limbs now has factory 60lb limbs. Same problem both sets. 29 inch draw. Max weight on the 60lb limbs. Apache arrow rest, spot hogg fast eddie xl sight. 60x string and cables. 29 1/2" 6mm fmj arrows. Rage chisel tip 2 blade and field points have same point of aim point of impact. Wild river archery in northbranch checked for cam lean and paper tuned. That's why I'm so confused.

[Nocturnal]

Sean are you hitting X's at 20-30 and having issues down range?

[Sean55025]

I'm hitting x's from 20_50yrds but my sight is maxed out away from my rizer so I would have no way to move left if needed. It just seems odd that it would be maxed out.