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Zap
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<^>

Unread postby Zap » Sun Jan 19, 2014 4:50 pm

This trapping stuff can get complicated......... :think: .........I am sure that I will enjoy this....... :mrgreen:

That's all for now....... 8-)


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Spysar
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Spysar » Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:56 am

Coyotes are the supreme challenge. The young of the year are easier, but the older ones are smart.

Let the lures work. Don't walk up to the trap everyday to check it, check it from afar with bino's. That's what I was told when I was learning, and it worked better.

Are you dyeing and waxing your traps? Handling them with rubber trapping gloves? Squat instead of kneel at the set. (less human scent)

I wish I could run a line, but don't have time because of work. I hope you have some luck, it aint easy.

Do you have any sets out? Any luck?
A buck will see you three times, and hear you twice, but he's only gonna smell you once.
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Zap » Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:00 am

Putting some out today.
Maybe I should wear ScentLok?

:lol:
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Spysar » Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:14 am

Are you doing anything to the traps to prepare them?

I was taught by oldtimers, back when fur was worth something. All furbears were targeted real hard. You had to do everything right.

We wore rubber arm length gloves, rubber boots, a small piece of plastic to squat on to prepare the set. Never handling traps with the same glove you handle lure with. If lure mistakenly got on the trap itself it would ruin the set.

We boiled our traps with natural materials. We added things with tannic acid that would naturally dye the traps black. (walnut hulls, oak leaves, sumac pods).

We waxed them properly. Dipping doesn't work, the wax will chip off. We had a wax pail. Each trap was submerged in hot wax, until the trap reached the temp of the wax. That way it makes a durable sealant, rust protection, and more important, a lubricant.

Do you do any of that???

I've also seen people set untreated traps with their bare hands near a carcass and had it work too, but that seems to catch the young of the year.
A buck will see you three times, and hear you twice, but he's only gonna smell you once.
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Re: <^>

Unread postby BassBoysLLP » Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:16 am

8-)

I agree with Spy. Yotes are the ultimate challenge. Sifter box makes things a little easier too.
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Zap
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Zap » Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:15 am

Spysar wrote:Are you doing anything to the traps to prepare them?

I was taught by oldtimers, back when fur was worth something. All furbears were targeted real hard. You had to do everything right.

We wore rubber arm length gloves, rubber boots, a small piece of plastic to squat on to prepare the set. Never handling traps with the same glove you handle lure with. If lure mistakenly got on the trap itself it would ruin the set.

We boiled our traps with natural materials. We added things with tannic acid that would naturally dye the traps black. (walnut hulls, oak leaves, sumac pods).

We waxed them properly. Dipping doesn't work, the wax will chip off. We had a wax pail. Each trap was submerged in hot wax, until the trap reached the temp of the wax. That way it makes a durable sealant, rust protection, and more important, a lubricant.

Do you do any of that???

I've also seen people set untreated traps with their bare hands near a carcass and had it work too, but that seems to catch the young of the year.



Degreased traps and gave them three coats of Full Metal Jacket.
No dye, not sure what that accomplishes if you are bedding the footholds.
Painted the body grips and snares, will give them a coat of fmj later today.

The scent control is pretty obvious and lures/bait are being kept separate and handled with different gloves.

Pulverized topsoil and peat moss for bedding and blending, ground is too frozen for using what is at the set.
The sifter is definitely handy.
I found a good earth anchor system and double ferruled the cables, the weak point on the traps would be the j hooks and I will get them welded at some point.
Center swiveled the trap chains.

The only one around here that I know is an older fellow that delivers for the local O'Rielly parts store.
The manager introduced me to him and I need to get over there and see if he can help me out.

Appreciate the input.
"Forged in fire lit long ago. Stand next to me and you will never stand alone".
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Stanley
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Stanley » Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:08 am

There might be some trapper forums you could get some info from. I did know a few guys that trapped around here. Leaving the least amount of human scent as possible was how they did it. Rubber boots were a huge factor in their success. Lot of guys don't think rubber boots work but those old trappers know it works.
You can fool some of the bucks, all of the time, and fool all of the bucks, some of the time, however you certainly can't fool all of the bucks, all of the time.
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Zap » Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:30 am

This is the trapping forum..... :think:

:lol:
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Stanley » Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:26 am

Zap wrote:This is the trapping forum..... :think:

:lol:

I forgot. ;) :lol:
You can fool some of the bucks, all of the time, and fool all of the bucks, some of the time, however you certainly can't fool all of the bucks, all of the time.
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Re: <^>

Unread postby lostinstateforest » Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:41 am

Just to echo a few things. Checking from a distance made a big big differences for me. Large eye appeal help, dead stump, burnt wood, large rock anything different to the area draws attention. Also my best set for coyotes was made like this. Old knarled stump in a cow field, setting up like a classic dirt hole with the stump or rock as backing, then instead of a dirthole I used 2 holes made by 10in needle nose plyers. Holes were made 5 inches right and left of the trap and 6-10 behind the pan. Jam needle nose into the ground angling towards the trap, then put q tip with lure all the way into the bottom.I found they worked these tiny pin holes longer and white q tip catches their eye.

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Zap
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Re: <^>

Unread postby Zap » Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:42 pm

Walk thru cubby set:

Trap on one end.
Image

Trap blended.
Image

Trap on other end.
Image

Bait wired to tree and a duck wing hanging.
Image

We will see what happens....maybe we will get a kitty cat.
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lostinstateforest
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Re: <^>

Unread postby lostinstateforest » Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:07 pm

Man those are cool pics. Quick question though zap. Shouldn't you have the cat stepping in between the jaws to the pan instead of over the 1 jaw to the pan? I believe this can lead to misses on K9s

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Re: <^>

Unread postby Zap » Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:15 pm

I guess we will see, from what I have seen that is the way most folks set on k9's..
I can find out tomorrow with a phone call.

I am going to go and cover the meat with some cedar limbs in the am, worried about hawks.....
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Re: <^>

Unread postby lostinstateforest » Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:05 pm

Hard to tell its been a while. I am sure you are right.

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Re: <^>

Unread postby Zap » Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:13 pm

lostinstateforest wrote:Hard to tell its been a while. I am sure you are right.

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Hey, I am winging it... :whistle:

It seems that a lot of folks cock the trap for k-9.
Some say it does not matter....

Most say on smaller animals it matters.
But I am after big animals..... :mrgreen:

I say "give it heck" until you get it right then full steam ahead..... :lol:
"Forged in fire lit long ago. Stand next to me and you will never stand alone".


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